You probably have been told that you shouldn’t cut metallics with the same scissors you use for regular thread. That’s because the harder metallic threads will dull the blades of your scissors. Then, instead of cutting cleanly, your scissors kind of saw through the thread.
So you might keep a pair of your scissors just for metallics and distinguish them by the fob, or the style or the color. But did you know that you can buy scissors made especially for cutting metallics? These scissors have one blade with very small serrations on the edges.
I am in no way a scissors snob. Even with cutting al kinds of threads, the cheap scissors I use usually have handles that break before they get dull. Even so I wondered if having a pair of metallic-only scissors would make a difference.
Since I was stitching the center of this piece entirely in metallics, it was a perfect opportunity to try out these scissors. While I’m not a big fan of the pair I tried (I don’t like small fingerholes) I could clearly see a difference.
When I cut the thread with the serrated blades, the ends were sharp and even. The needle was easier to thread and the end of the thread didn’t splay out as I was stitching. When I didn’t cut with these scissors, all these things happened.
This happens because the serrated blade holds the thread more firmly for cutting
It wasn’t enough to make me shout “Hallelujah!” but my stitching was faster and easier using them.
That was with round metallic threads for 18-mesh canvas. You should also use these for metallic ribbons and you must use this type of scissors for real metal threads (regular scissors won’t cut through real metal cleanly).
It’s important that you identify these scissors. I would use a special fob and perhaps add a small metallic tassel. Kreinik also recommends that you put a small “S” for serrated on them using a permanent marker. I’m so forgetful I would do all three and buy a pair that didn’t look like my other scissors.
You will also get better results if you use them the right way. The serrated blade should always be on the bottom. If you can’t see the serrations, run your finger along each blade, you’ll be able to tell by feel. This plays into the reason why they work so well. The bottom blade of the scissors holds the thread in place, while the upper thread cuts it.
Serrated scissors don’t get dull as fast as regular scissors, so sharpening them isn’t an issue.
I felt the performance was good enough that I’m going to buy a par with bigger fingerholes as soon as I can find them.
About Janet M Perry
Janet Perry is the Internet's leading authority on needlepoint. She designs, teaches and writes, getting raves from her fans for her innovative techniques, extensive knowledge and generous teaching style. A leading writer of stitch guides, she blogs here and lives on an island in the northeast corner of the SF Bay with her family
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