
Updated September 11, 2021.
Making a needlepoint coaster is not hard to do, so let’s talk about how to do it.
Begin by selecting the size for the coasters. Square coasters are vastly easier to make than round coasters (I’ll put some notes about that in a bit). Coasters generally are 3 or 4 inches square, so plan on that for the finished size of the stitching.
The stitching instructions are for all coasters where the needlepoint is exposed. The finishing instructions are for finishing your coaster from scratch. You can also easily use self-finishing items to complete a coaster. Several companies make these including Cooper Oaks, Sudberry, Planet Earth,and VNG.
Stitches, Threads, & Coasters
Because coasters get sone wear, you will want to use stitches that won’t snag. Because you will be putting something directly on the stitches, you will also want stitches that are flat and not bumpy. This is not the place for smyrna crosses, padding, or exposed canvas.
Every thread you use MUST be colorfast. Glasses are often wet on the bottom or sweat and this moisture will cause non-colorfast threads to bleed. If you are not sure about colorfastness, test your threads before stitching. I once worked very hard creating a piece that almost immediately was ruined by water.
It’s better if threads are absorbent and somewhat water resistant. This makes wool a fantastic choice for coasters.
I had been thinking that all the ready-made needlepoint coasters I had seen were wool in Tent Stitch because it was cheap to make. That is why, but it turns out, it’s also a good choice.
The Innards & Back of the Coaster
You will need something inside your coaster to give it some strength. The best thing for this is 14 count plastic canvas. It’s strong and flexible. You can cut it to the size you need.
If you want your coaster to be thicker, buy some thin sheets of cork and add them to the inside.
Cut both the plastic canvas and the cork to be 1/4″ smaller than the finished needlepoint.
For a backing you will want something like Ultrasuede, that is rough enough to keep the coaster in place. I like Ultrasuede because you can often find small pieces, it comes in lots of colors, and you can cut it to fit. To begin, cut it slightly larger than the finished needlepoint. You’ll trim it later.
Round Coasters
If you want to make round coasters begin by finding plastic canvas rounds that are the size you want. Use one of them as the template for your needlepoint, but stitch about three stitches beyond the outline from the plastic canvas. You could also use heavy paper disk drink coasters the same way.
The other important difference is in finishing, you will need to clip the unstitched margin of the canvas in order to make the edge smooth. You can find directions in clipping seams in many sewing books and on sewing sites.
Making the Coaster
Assemble the sandwich so that you have the needlepoint on top, then the cork (if you are using it), then the plastic canvas. Make sure the innards are centered on the needlepoint.
Make diagonal cuts at each corner of the needlepoint to reduce bulk. Turn the edges of the needlepoint to the back and temporarily secure with clothespins.
Look at the edges to make sure no canvas shows. If it does, trim your innards a bit to make them smaller then repeat the steps above.
Once you are happy with the edges, lash the needlepoint to the plastic canvas using pearl cotton or linen (these threads are very strong). Do this one side at a time by removing the clothespin, pulling the needlepoint taut, and then sewing through the margin and the plastic canvas many times to secure it.
Now your coaster needs a backing. Trim your backing to be slightly smaller than the coaster top. With two strands of matching floss, sew the back to the coaster using blind hemstitch or another binding stitch.
Your coaster is ready to go!
About Janet M Perry
Janet Perry is the Internet's leading authority on needlepoint. She designs, teaches and writes, getting raves from her fans for her innovative techniques, extensive knowledge and generous teaching style. A leading writer of stitch guides, she blogs here and lives on an island in the northeast corner of the SF Bay with her family
Dear Janet,
Thank you so much! Although I love to stitch, finishing has always made me anxious. Your directions are clearly written and the hints your gave will guide me along the way. Would never have thought about using plastic canvas. Would also have not considered whether or not the threads were colorfast. I’m anxious to choose a pattern and start stitching. What is even more enjoyable is that coasters are obviously small and can be a take-it-with-you needlepoint project.
Hello,
I recently finished two coasters, but they seem pretty thin. The only coasters I have experience with are wood so I don’t know how the p.c. ones are supposed to look. I stuck foam and felt on the back of a finished one, but now it seems too thick. Is it better for p.c. ones to be thin or thick?
Thanks for the help
I think it really depends on what you like. Looking at my non-needlepoint coasters, some are as thin as a stitched plastic canvas while others are over 1/4″ thick.
Because plastic canvas itself is waterproof, you don’t need backing to keep the needlepoint in shape. However liquid will leak through any needlepoint and mar the furniture’s surface. For that reason I would always use foam or thin cork as a backing on coasters.
Keep stitching,
Janet
Hi, Janet. I have been looking everywhere for instructions for coasters. Thank you!
I love to needlepoint, but I’m not a good hand sewer. Could I possibly glue cork to the bottom of the finished coasters, rather than sew on ultra suede?
Yes you could do this. It’s a great idea.
Keep stitching,
Janet
Thanks, Janet. I have everything ordered!
Hi, happy to find your site. Many years ago I needlepointed coasters and backed them with ultra suede. Finished sides all around with a nice stitch.
So here’s my question. I also needlepointed a sizable picture and never finished it.
Is it possible to cut out of it four coasters and back them with ultrasuede? Keeping in mind the edges are all needlepointed.
Please let me know, thank you.
Kathy —
To some extent yes. However, the edges might not be terribly stable. You should probably edge them somehow, maybe with seam bonding. What I would do is cut out the needlepoint and the backs to the same size. Then I would sew seam binding onto the two together.
The binding would look good and would protect the needlepoint.
Keep stitching,
Janet
I have just found this site and am so pleased I have made a small picture which I would like to make into a coaster. I have plastic canvas to put under the cross stitch. Could I use material instead of the dork. Thank you
Yes, I think you could but try to find a fabric that won’t slide such as felt or Ultrasuede.
Keep stitching,
Janet