Have you ever wondered why we talk about “metallic” threads instead of “metal” threads?
That’s because stitchery using real metal threads is called Goldwork and requires specialized tools, threads, and techniques. It’s our needlepoint technique of the month.
Learning about Goldwork
Real metal threads, used in goldwork, are very stiff and very expensive. They are far too precious to draw through the canvas, as we do with metallic thread. They are attached to the surface of you canvas or cloth. Goldwork is a technique that has been done in the West since the Middle Ages, when metal threads were used to decorate church vestments, Bible and missal covers, and clothing for royalty. Today it is used for formal military uniforms as well. It’s never been an inexpensive technique.
Because Goldwork is always done on the surface of the ground, the technique can be done on any fabric, including needlepoint canvas. Most often you see it done on heavier cloth. That’s because the metal in the threads weighs alot so sturdy cloth is needed to support it. Thinner cloths used as grounds for Goldwork are often lined.
Most Goldwork is done by couching the metal threads using a single strand of matching silk. Unlike needlepoint or embroidery where the result changes depending on the stitch used, here the result changes depending on the metal thread used.
Felt is used as padding to raise areas of Goldwork before the metal threads are applied.
Threads for Goldwork
Here are the common threads used in Goldwork. Often they can be bought as gold-plated threads instead of gold tocut diwn on expense. Many are available in other metals as well.
Passing is the basic thread for Goldwork. It is made by wrapping a thin and narrow sheet of metal around a cotton or silk thread core. The ends of this thread can be passed through the ground to secure them.
Jap, or Japan thread, is a cheaper version of passing thread, using metal-colored paper instead of real metal for the wrap. Kreinik makes many Japan threads. They have the suffix “j” after the color number and are sized differently than the metallic threads.
Purl, or Bullion, looks like a spring. It’s hollow and can be stretched. It comes in matte and shiny versions.
Pearl Purl looks similar to Purl but has rounded instead of flat wire. When couched it looks more like beads than Purl does.
Other Purls include check purl which has a faceted look and crimp purl which is purl that has been crimped at intervals.
Gimp is a thick three-ply cord, made of thinner cords twisted together. It is also a term used for a specific type of trim that can come in any color.
Broad Plate is a flat thin plate of metal that is used to fill spaces by folding and couching inside the folds. An easier thread to use for this is Oval, or Flat Worm, a thread that is made like Passing thread but flattened slightly.
Paillettes or spangles are sequins made from real metal. They come in various sizes and shapes.
Tools for Goldwork
If you will be doing Goldwork, you will need some specialized tools. First you will need a shallow box with a felt bottom and solid sides. You work inside the box so that it’s easy to find bits of thread that get cut off. If at all possible, you’ll use these in your stitching.
Another specialized tool is the mellor. It looks like a laying tool at one end, but with a broad, flat part at the other. It is used to move the threads and hold them in place.
You will also need special scissors (use them only for Goldwork), tweezers, and beeswax. Your needle choice for Goldwork will depend on your ground.
Goldwork Resourcess
- Nordic Needle has a lovely introduction to Goldwork on their blog. It also has detailed pictures of many basic techniques.
- Free Goldwork Sampler
- Goldwork Kits, Resources and Supplies
- The Royal School of Needlework has both a book and classes on Goldwork
- ANG has a Goldwork correspondence course
- Goldwork kits from a British company
About Janet M Perry
Janet Perry is the Internet's leading authority on needlepoint. She designs, teaches and writes, getting raves from her fans for her innovative techniques, extensive knowledge and generous teaching style. A leading writer of stitch guides, she blogs here and lives on an island in the northeast corner of the SF Bay with her family
Leave a Reply