Random Thoughts on Needlepoint

Yesterday I was getting some stuff off my old Mac and came upon a list of “Do You Knows?’ leftover from About.com days. These are short comments, tips and information about needlepoint.

I thought I’d share them with you.

~ Compensation is the process of making partial stitches in order to fill up a space which is not filled by complete stitches.

~ If you are using furry threads, always stitch with them last. That way your other stitches don’t get furry too.

~ When stitching a piece with beads, do the beads after the stitching around them is completed.

~ Use up odds & ends of threads–put them into a bag & pull out a thread at random, stitch with it until it is gone, then pull another one.

~ If you have French knots in a piece, stitch them after the surrounding area is stitched.

~ You can use a small bag with a corded handle for your orts. This can hang on your frame.

~ Stained glass patterns can make beautiful needlepoint, just trace them onto your canvas.

~ You can use one of those stitcher’s magnets on any metal surface to hold an extra needle.

~ Making marks every ten stitches or so on your canvas is a great way to keep from going off count in charted needlepoint.

~ You should always use a hard lead drawing pencil (4H) to draw on needlepoint canvas, the others will flake off and discolor your thread.

~ Keeping cotton floss on spools in closed plastic boxes can weaken the thread. Whenever you store in plastic for a long time, keep it open.

~ Using penelope (double thread) canvas allows you to work both petit point and regular needlepoint in the same piece.

~ Rank your unfinished projects, so that when you finish a project you know which one to work on next.

~ You can organize your projects more easily and neatly by putting them into the wire baskets in a storage unit.

~ When working from a chart, remember that one square equals one stitch, in needlepoint that means one intersection covered by a tent stitch.

~ Use a colored pen to mark out the center lines or squares on a chart. Color in all the squares from arrow to arrow.

~ If working tent stitch, you can turn your chart upside down, but never turn it a quarter turn, your stitches may slant wrong then.

~ When using a chart or stitch diagram, check your relative position often, you will find (and be able to correct) mistakes sooner.

~ Wondering how many ply to use? Stitch a small sample on scrap canvas & hold it up to the light. If you don’t see light, then it’s OK.

~ If you end threads by working it through the back, don’t put dark threads through light, it will show through.

~ When working a chart, plan the shortest route between areas of the same color, this makes you less likely to make mistakes.

~ When stitching with perforated paper, the smoother side is the right one.

~ If using perforated paper, mark the cutting lines on the back with a soft pencil.

~ When stitching on perforated paper, complete stitching before cutting out the shape.

~ Always look for a piece of fabric with a minimum of slubs and imperfections.

~ If using waste canvas, cut it at least 2 inches larger than the design all around.

~ If using a large mesh waste canvas, stitch through the smaller holes, it will help you stabilize the stitches.

~ After you remove the waste canvas, check for missed stitches, then add them in with a sharp needle in the empty spaces.

~ Plastic canvas shapes can be used as lining for 3-D needlepoint pieces, to give them stability and shape.

~ When using penelope canvas and working petit point, separate the canvas threads with a large tapestry needle before stitching.

If you liked these tips and want more, why not get a copy of my book, Needlepoint Trade Secrets? It’s packed full of tips about needlepoint from start to finish. You can buy it at your local needlework store, from Amazon.com (here) or from Nordic Needle.